Sunday, August 5, 2012

New York day 2 and New Jersey



October 14 Fri

I awoke ahead of everyone else in the house this morning. This is the day we've anticipated for the past 10 and half weeks. This is the day we part with the van. Originally, Monte was going to follow me in his car to North Middletown, New Jersey and after the van-returning process was complete, drive me back. But Monte really couldn't afford the time away from his business this would involve today, and I didn't mind at all. Adventures on Wheels advertises on their website that they provide free shuttle service to the airport, so I figured I could get that close from New Jersey on my own without a problem and call Monte from there to see where he was by then in the scheme of things.

It felt odd driving the van all alone without Razelle by my side and without a single item of our possessions in it, except for the GPS mounted in front of me and my small backpack on the seat beside me. I had a supply of dimes and quarters in the driver's door to cover the tolls in New Jersey and bills in my billfold to pay for the Verrazano Bridge crossing. I monitored the odometer as I drove from the Sunrise Highway to the Belt Parkway to the Verrazano Bridge and across Staten Island to the Garden State Parkway. As my GPS counted down the miles and my odometer counted them up I could see that I would reach my destination without the compulsory 5000-mile oil change being an issue. I would have about 120 miles leeway since the oil change in Columbia, Missouri. As I slowly moved along, accompanied by so very many other New York drivers this morning during rush hour as we threaded our way past a "serendipitous" stretch of highway construction, I switched on the radio for company. I came across an intriguingly annoying but captivating voice that stopped me from scanning the radio any further. So this is what "Imus in the Morning" sounds like! It was my first exposure to his show (and served to advance my understanding of the local culture one more notch). Imus and company kept me company all the way into New Jersey. I had occasion to use the wipers intermittently while doing all this.

Three miles from my destination I pulled into a Quick Chek gas station. It had a bathroom, and a coffee shop. I needed both and I had time for both. This was where I filled the van's tank with gasoline for the very last time. I brought the receipt with me to the drop-off location, as stipulated, to show that the tank had been filled within 10 miles of their establishment. There was a homeless woman loitering here with a cardboard sign and I appreciated that she didn't approach me.

I pulled into the "Road Bear" lot. I now understand that Road Bear is the name of the entire network and "Adventures on Wheels" is what Road Bear offers. Finally, that distinction has been cleared up. I walked into the office and was greeted cheerfully. I handed over the paperwork. They were expecting me by 10:30 AM and I had navigated all that traffic and arrived with plenty of time to spare. The significance of 10:30 AM – that's the hour of day I picked up the van in Agoura Hills, CA, 74 days and 13,600 miles ago, and that’s when they wanted it back. The receptionist seemed to be the person who took my frantic calls when I was still in California and the van was not behaving well. She was pleasantly surprised to meet me! She said a long time had passed since we last spoke and she wondered whatever had become of me and the van; and then, here I was and here the van was. I related some of our adventures and told her that in fact it was all on the Internet in the blog I was keeping. She asked for the URL for the blog and for a moment I hesitated. I tried to recall if I had written anything in it that would actually dissuade potential customers from renting it. I was quite unhappy with it at the very beginning and only learned to like the van and rely on it with the passage of time. I certainly looked after it as if it had been my own property and had returned it in the same condition I received it; no, actually in better condition, considering all the work that was done in Hayward, CA by their mechanic there. After a few second's pause, I gave her the URL and helped her with the spelling and punctuation so that anyone curious about our "adventure on wheels" could find it and read all about it.

The local mechanic came back with his inspection report: all was in order. She told me that within a few days I would find my bank account credited with the amount of my initial deposit and the cost of the oil change in Columbia, MO, based on the invoice I handed her. I was done here. That was that. Now "van-less", I asked to be taken to the airport so I could return to my brother's home near JFK. The free shuttle they advertised wasn't available at that hour, though. It was scheduled to go to Newark Airport several hours later to pick up a customer, but JFK was never an intended destination. Oh, I didn't know that! I asked if I could at least get a ride to the nearest train station. That they gladly did for me, and I was driven to the Middletown, NJ Transit Station. I paid for a ticket to Penn Station in Manhattan and the train soon arrived. I kept track of my location using my GPS in the train, even though it got confused often because it wasn't set up to follow railroad tracks.

At South Amboy, NJ, a group of 6 nerdy guys in weird black outfits and makeup carrying makeshift costume weapons got on. They didn't accost any of the other passengers, but they were rowdy and loud – and shockingly foul-mouthed. I overheard them talking about riding the train into Manhattan for a Comic Con Convention. The other passengers were mildly annoyed by their behavior, but said nothing about it to them. Even the ticket inspector let them carry on (he was only annoyed with them for moving from the seats they first sat in to a different set of seats without moving their ticket stubs as they did so – this is how he knew who paid for which segment of the train line). So, I took my cue from the other passengers and silently disapproved of their crudeness and inconsideration, and held my tongue all the way to the last stop at Penn Station, NY.

There is a lot to see in New York City. I called Razelle from Penn Station to see if she and Monte and Mindy wanted to meet me in "the City" since I was already there and do some of the sightseeing Razelle and Mindy had talked about earlier. Razelle said they weren't ready for that and I should continue traveling on the Long Island Rail Road to the Baldwin Station and then call to be picked up when I got there. I was very pleased with myself when I finally did alight at that station. I had independently traveled the entire distance back to my starting point of the morning by public transportation. It hadn't cost much either (less than any other alternate method of travel would have cost).

I decided to walk the last mile from the Baldwin Station to Monte's. This gave me the chance to stop at the Post Office along the way and check when it's open. The sign on the door showed that there is still a window of opportunity tomorrow for sending a parcel of our possessions to Beer Sheva if we can't get them all to fit within the weight limits the airlines have set.

Razelle said that one of her "bucket list" items for this trip was to ride in a horse-drawn carriage through Central Park. I fully expected we would be leaving Monte and Mindy's in time for Razelle to have this dream fulfilled. But she lost her enthusiasm for it when the weather reports said that stormy and possibly destructive weather was headed that way. By the time we did all leave together for Manhattan in Monte's car, dark threatening clouds hung ominously low ahead of us over the Manhattan skyline. The heavy showers they produced were brief, but convincing enough to justify leaving this item on Razelle's bucket list for a future visit.

We crossed into Manhattan on the Queensboro Bridge and Razelle pointed out the landmark smokestacks that can be seen in so many motion pictures filmed from this approach. This was a seminal moment for Razelle. During our entire journey across America, it was the signs announcing the direction to "New York" that had been her guiding compass. For the first time on this trip Razelle was finally in New York, New York. She was thrilled.

Between Monte's GPS and mine, finding a parking garage near the Fig and Olive restaurant should have been a simple thing, but neither of us could find one with our navigational devices. The parking garage we did eventually find simply came into view on its own. It was on 50th Street between Madison and Park Avenues, several blocks from our restaurant on 52nd Street between Fifth and Madison Avenues. We walked this distance and stood before the Fig and Olive to wait for Barry and Brenda's arrival. Razelle, Monte and Mindy chose to stand under an awning in a dark spot in front of a cultural center displaying a sculpture of dismembered-anatomy that I found disturbing. I crossed the street to a brightly-lit bridal-dress store instead and stood alone. It was so much cheerier there.

Presently Barry and Brenda came into view and we all went into the Fig and Olive. We were met at the door and escorted up a set of stairs to a table reserved for us. We were handed menus and we began to study them. Shortly after we were seated Ilyssa and Mike also arrived and joined us at our table.

While we were reading the menus the ceiling lights were suddenly dimmed. Razelle and I exchanged glances. She knows I am not comfortable eating in a restaurant when I can't see my food. The place filled up quickly with patrons, who began to converse among themselves very loudly. I couldn't hear my own voice while speaking across the table to others in our party and I could hardly hear them either. I had something to share with Barry, but trying to explain it was hard to do. I wanted to give Barry a chance to read Phil Markowicz's book, which Phil had sign for me personally. At least Barry and I had spoken of it while Razelle and I were with them in Florida, so Barry recognized the book with no explanation needed as I handed it to him.

The place was rather pricy, but this is Manhattan after all. In light of that, I made a point to order a few of the least expensive entrees on the menu. I ordered a dish of assorted olives, a glass of inexpensive full-bodied red wine and a plate of creamed pasta with black mushrooms and scallions (this seemed more Italian than Greek, but that didn't bother me; it sounded like the meal I'd had in Canberra that I liked so much and wanted to try again). Razelle also ordered simple inexpensive items to keep the cost of our meals within a reasonable range. As our waiter took our orders, Razelle requested that he calculate our check separately. She insisted this was what she wanted, but he said he couldn't do that. Brenda said we could work this out later and the waiter went off to the kitchen.

The din grew worse, the crowd of patrons grew denser and the food took forever to arrive. Waiters bumped into us as they passed our table and argued among themselves over who ordered what among the various tables of patrons they were serving. I grew hoarse trying to be heard and eventually gave up trying to talk at all. After a ridiculously long wait our food finally arrived. I was extremely disappointed. Considering how long we had waited, I couldn't understand why my pasta noodles were so badly undercooked. The sauce was OK, but the scallions were too plentiful and too sharp to allow the mushrooms to be enjoyed. I drained my glass of wine but only ate half the pasta dish. I passed around my olives and they were eaten by others at the table and only a few were left when the bowl was returned to me. I could take no more of this place and got up from the table to take a walk in the fresh air outside.

Like a moth seeking light in the dark, across the street I saw a brightly lit passageway leading through the building before me. I went straight there, then continued through the passageway onto 53rd Street. Before me I saw a small cluster of delicate trees in a food court. Even in the darkness of night these trees served to lighten my disposition. I turned left. At the corner I found myself awestruck by the incongruity of a large gray gothic cathedral set among modern glitzy towers of glass and steel. I crossed the street to read the sign: St. Thomas Church. What an amazing discovery for me to find this here. I turned left again onto 5th Avenue and came to a pair of large department stores. One was a Hollister clothing store. I remember seeing someone in Hawaii with a shopping bag that bore this brand name; now, finally, I understood what the name represented. The other was a Zara department store. In front of it an obese, bearded and unwashed man was protesting the affluence this store represented and claiming it only sold clothing to an elite segment of society. Perhaps this character had wandered up here from among the protesters on Wall Street who were making news at this time. Passers-by didn't even engage him in argument. He seemed to need psychiatric assistance. As I prepared to turn left again at the next corner onto 52nd Street I noticed another cathedral one more block ahead on 51st Street. I walked closer to get a better look and saw that it had scaffolding around its base. It was being restored. It's spires pointed way, way up toward the firmament above Manhattan, but still they were out-competed by the towers of commerce on the surrounding streets. This short tour outside the restaurant took no more than fifteen minutes, and I was glad I had seen a little of the "color" of Manhattan this night. I was loathe to return to the restaurant, but knew I had no choice. I mounted the stairs and rejoined the family around the table.

Shortly after I sat down the bill was brought to us. It had been equally divided three ways. Our "share" (Razelle's and mine) greatly exceeded the cost of what we'd ordered. I looked at Razelle and she was in shock. This could not be so! We had purposely ordered so little and Razelle had insisted before we ordered that we be billed separately in anticipation of this problem. The atmosphere at the table took on an uncomfortable pall. It was embarrassing to be disputing this here.

Never during our entire trip had I ever felt so trapped by circumstances. This moment, without a doubt, was the lowest point of the entire trip for me. Barry saw our distress and after doing the math gave Razelle back some of the money she felt we should not have paid. That also made me uncomfortable, because now Barry was bearing the cost of this. There was no gracious way to repair the atmosphere. What a mess.

We parted at the entrance to the restaurant. Barry and Brenda headed back to their Hotel in preparation for tomorrow's cruise. Ilyssa and Mike went in a direction of their own, and Razelle, Monte, Mindy and I returned to the parking garage. The time we had spent in that restaurant was so protracted that the parking bill had ballooned. Razelle covered the parking bill for Monte. It was the least we could do to try and repair the evening.

Back at Monte and Mindy's I continued to feel bad that this evening had ended this way. That feeling stayed with me until I fell asleep.

No comments: